Blackwater Paddling · May 3 by Kurt Peterson
I consider myself quite lucky to have visited some true wilderness gems in this country. The wild views of the Pemigewasset Wilderness in New Hampshire, the lush biodiversity of the Great Smokies in North Carolina and Tennessee, and the jaw-dropping scenery of the High Sierras in California being my favorites.
But last weekend a group of old college buddies and I ditched the packs in favor of paddles and lit out for a bachelor weekend on the Roanoke River Trail in eastern NC, and I discovered the surreal beauty of blackwater paddling and the backwater swamps that are unlike any wilderness I’ve ever experienced.
I had always heard stories of the Roanoke River Trail and the 14 tent platforms that make the camping experience that much more fun, but experiencing it firsthand is so much more enthralling.
Camping in these backwater coves isn’t just a visual treat, but an auditory experience that will keep you up at night listening with rapt attention to the “who-cooks-for-you?” monkey-call of barrred owls and the sound of what I only can assume is bowfin slapping the water like angry parents at the pool.
With my recently unlocked interest in birding, some of us would skim out in the dim mornings, quietly paddling our canoe with ears open to a forest chock full of birdlife. With dagger-like beaks, great egrets could be seen stalking fish among the immense black tupelo and bald cypress while bright streaks of yellow prothonotary warblers zipped about us in their pre-mating zeal.
We spotted dozens of great blue heron soaring above the tree canopy, but we were best treated by a couple of barred owls that came within 50 feet of our platform. As if their call isn’t creepy enough, just stare into those black eyes that say “I would eat you if you were only smaller.” I only regret not having a telephoto zoom to capture all the birdlife. One thing I didn’t regret was my choice of boat for the trip. The Mad River Synergy is the perfect boat for these waters with the added benefit of hauling extra gear—even a cooler.
The Roanoke River Trail tent platforms, put up through the immense volunteer effort of the Roanoke River Partners, highlight a perfect example of how we can best protect wilderness—conservation through recreation. By encouraging recreation through the use of these platforms, you can experience a wilderness area I would almost certainly have never considered visiting before. And because of this trip, I’m much more interested in seeing that Roanoke River Partners gets the financial support I know they deserve. Just be sure to follow the strictest Leave No Trace ethics while visiting the area, and be sure to pack out everything. Yes, everything.
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Kurt-Great blog on this and I’m glad our names were spared to protect us. I also like your final link – “Yes everything” link to the poop bucket we used. Very subtle!
— Kevin Caldwell May 3 #
Great blog. I have been up the Roanoke several times on tugboats going to williamstown. now i have to plan a trip with friends and a canoe or two. looks like an amazing way to see the river. thanks
— Ted Cygan May 20 #